IIt may seem strange to say this given the amount of rain we've had recently, but we all need to do our part to save our wetlands. According to the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust (WWT), the UK has lost around 75 per cent of its wetlands over the last 300 years due to overdevelopment, agriculture, pollution and, increasingly, climate change. According to the Environment Agency, we have lost 90 percent of our wetlands in the last century alone.
This is important because more than 10 percent of our freshwater and wetland species – birds, amphibians, insects – are at risk of extinction and two-thirds are in decline. By creating wildlife ponds in our back gardens we can help reverse the trend. We can also include our drains in the rescue plan by creating a mini wetland underneath. This benefits wildlife and slows the flow of rainwater into our drains. If we do both, we can help WWT meet its goal of creating 100,000 hectares of new or restored wetlands by 2050.
Wildlife uses your pond to drink, bathe, rest, feed and breed. If you can attract birds, hedgehogs, newts, frogs and toads, they will in return eat garden pests such as slugs and snails. Amphibians tend to return to the pond from which they spawn. So attracting them could ensure a stable population. Even if they don't overwinter or breed in your pond, they can become frequent visitors.
You definitely shouldn't add fish to your pond, says Oliver
AKIRA SUEMORI FOR SUNDAY TIMES
“Considering what our gardens used to look like, a lot of people had ponds, so you had a network everywhere and the frogs could move freely,” says Nick Oliver, Community Action Manager at WWT. “However, as people now focus on terraces and leisure spaces, the garden pond has been pushed aside as a feature. But if you introduce these little rest areas, amphibians have a place to stop along the way.”
Fall is a good time to build a wildlife pond because it's best to fill it with rainwater – tap water is too rich in nutrients and promotes excessive algae and weed growth. Digging the pond before a rainstorm is forecast is a practical way to fill it, Oliver says.
Ideally, a pond needs a balance of sunlight and shade. Too much sun encourages weed growth, but you need enough to warm the water so amphibians like frogs and newts can breed in the spring and residents like tadpoles can survive.
Avoid placing the pond under a dense group of trees whose dead leaves would clog the soil. Once you've sorted out your location, the size of your pond will be limited solely by the size of your yard, says Oliver. It doesn't have to be deep; One to two feet of depth is sufficient.
They need just enough sun to warm the water so the frogs can breed in the spring
GETTY IMAGES
Next, decide on the water design: What should the pond look like? “You want to create as much variety as possible for different wildlife and plants, so create different layers,” Oliver recommends.
They need a flat end so birds and smaller visitors can get in and out or stand on them to drink or bathe. Ponds that are flush with the ground are the easiest for wildlife to navigate. Raised or sunken ponds need steps or planks to make access easier for creatures. “If your pond is level with the land and frogs and newts can get in and out freely, you will attract them. At the WWT Wetland Center in Barnes [west London] We have three raised ponds, two of which are connected to the bank, and our frogs and newts live in these two,” says Oliver.
As you excavate your various levels, remove any sharp objects such as tree roots, rocks, and man-made materials such as construction debris. Apply a 2-inch layer of soft sand for padding, then attach the liner. Butyl, a malleable synthetic rubber, is a popular choice for a liner. For larger pond alternatives, the RHS recommends puddle clay or sodium bentonite. Make sure there is excess foil around the edge so it can be pulled down when filled with water. Bury it or hold it in place with rocks, which also provides a habitat for the creatures. Add sand to the bottom and then fill it up.
Once the pond is created, all you need to do is add aquatic plants to it. Choose species that are suitable for the depth and size of your pond when fully grown. Avoid overplanting and leave between one-third and one-half of the water's surface clear of foliage to allow sunlight to reach the oxygenators. Aim for native plants that have evolved with British wildlife, says Oliver, and avoid non-native invasive species such as parrot feathers (Myriophyllum aquaticum) and New Zealand dwarf herb (Crassula helmsii). Many of these are now banned from sale in the UK, but they may still be available online. They look exotic, but can overwhelm native plants and wildlife. There is a list of banned plants on the Royal Horticultural Society website.
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Oliver says you should definitely not add fish to your wildlife pond. “When it comes to wildlife ponds and goldfish, there is a big red flag because they are voracious eaters and will suck up everything they can.
“Once the plants are there, you can sit back and wait for wildlife to populate this new home. An ecosystem will build up without your intervention. For maintenance, you may need to add water during a prolonged drought. Prune your plants if necessary. When removing algae and weeds, leave it to the side so the invertebrates can climb back into the water. When it freezes in winter, the ice must not be broken as the shock could kill some residents. Your emerging plants form tiny air pockets, and floating a ball on the surface could keep an air hole open.
No wildlife pond is too small, says Oliver. “Even something as simple as sinking a dishwashing bowl into the ground in your garden helps. I’ve seen some great examples of people converting bowls and sinks into ponds in Belfast and they are all thriving.”
The plant species
Myriophyllum spicatum
ALAMY
Submerged: to enrich the water with oxygen and provide protection from predators. Examples: peppered milfoil (Myriophyllum spicatum); Hornwort (Ceratophyllum sunk); Spondweed (Potamogeton lucens).
Floating: helps wildlife rest and provides shade. Examples: Frogbit (Hydrocharis bite frog); water soldier (Stratiotes aloides); Common buttercup (water frog); water lilies (Nymphaeaceae) – these can be vigorous. Therefore, buy a suitable variety for your pond size.
marginal: Add visual appeal, attract pollinators and help dragonfly and dragonfly larvae leave the pond and grow into adults. Examples: marsh marigold (Caltha palustris); yellow flag (Iris pseudacorus); water mint (Mentha aquatica); water forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpioides); water plantain (Alisma plantago-aquatica); flowering rush (Butomus umbellatus). The reed (Phragmites australis) helps remove impurities from water.
And how to plant them
Use a container to prevent a plant from becoming too invasive. Water baskets have mesh sides to allow the movement of air, water and gas. A fine mesh is best, otherwise use a burlap liner to retain the soil.
Use water compost, medium to heavy all-purpose compost, or pesticide-free garden soil.
Partially fill the container with compost, plant the plant to the same depth as the original pot, and add grit mulch.
For submerged plants, place the lowest point in a water basket and secure it firmly to the ground, either with a layer of rocks in the basket or with anchors.
For deep-water plants, gradually lower the plants to the depth required so that their leaves are on the surface.
Floating plants do not need to be fixed because they lie on the surface.
Plant edge stocks in water baskets on the edge, making sure the plant is in the right water depth for its needs.